Doing the head gasket did not provide access to the more-likely suspects in the bottom of the engine, so I didn't have that job done, yet. The mechanic said the extra work on the cylinder head might not help the oil-burning, that the problem is probably in the bottom of the engine. I don't remember what they replaced - rings and things? Anyway, the total bill for that and the head gasket was about $1200. (There were a few thermostat changes over the miles, but they didn’t fix wasn't the problem.) While the engine was apart and getting a new head gasket, I also had a little work done to the cylinder head in an effort to cut down on oil usage, but it didn't help at all. The problem was troubleshot to a bad head gasket, which was letting a little air get into the cooling lines, and the little bubbles were intermittently blocking the coolant, especially around the thermostat.
NOICE DEBUGGER REPUTATION CRACK
Fortunately, I was able to avoid letting the car boil over and crack its engine block, etc., by cutting back on the engine load until the intermittent attack would go away. Worse with the engine under load, during warm weather, and using air conditioning. Anyway, time start to regularly checking the oil a word to the wise.Īround 225k, the car would overheat intermittently. Worse on long trips on the highway, trips like 150 miles long, otherwise 5 highway-trips of 30 miles each didn't burn any oil, which is weird. Somewhere around 175k, the car started burning a little oil. The problem was troubleshot to the variable timing valve. The next morning I tried to start the cold car, the starter spun, but the car wouldn't ignite, and a tow truck had to pick it up. One day, I hit the RPM wall, but it happened twice within two days (!). That happened a few times per year for a few years. Turning the car off and back on was a work-around for the problem, and then the car would resume being able to red-line as usual. It would hit 4500 RPM like a brick wall, regardless of which gear, or even in neutral, even with the accelerator floored. The symptoms were that the car would stop accelerating above (about) 4500 RPM.
I think that valve is a special part that only EX's have.
I just replaced the "variable timing valve" or something like that, for $500. I would have been happy with an LX, but EX is what was on the used car lot. But it still takes continuous practice to "drop" the clutch into gear when the engine is spinning at just the right RPMs, and also do it more gently and smoothly, and maybe allow a touch more slippage. Sometimes, the whole car would shake when I'd drop the clutch into gear. I guess it’s called popping the clutch pedal. When I drove, I think in my efforts to keep the clutch slipping as little as possible, I was dropping the clutch into gear too fast. The little springs were stressed and many of them were not anchored properly, so one end of a spring might be sticking out haphazardly.
When the mechanic took it apart, the old clutch disk, which has dozens of very tough little springs, was a mess. It wasn't slipping, but it started needing a sledge hammer to push the shifter into gear. The clutch needed replaced at 150k, for about $650.
I bought it when it was 7 years old with 110,000 miles.
0 kommentar(er)
